Farklı Güneş Filtresi Ailelerinin Lipstick Matrisindeki Performans Etkileşimlerinin Faktöriyel Tasarımla İncelenmesi: Fotostabilite, Tekstür ve Mikrobiyolojik Güvenlik Optimizasyonu

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Çelebi B.

Journal of Immunology and Clinical Microbiology, cilt.11, sa.1, ss.1-11, 2026 (Hakemli Dergi)

Özet

Objectives: The lip region (vermilion) is one of the most vulnerable areas of the body to environmental stress factors because it lacks hair follicles, sweat and sebaceous glands, has a very thin stratum corneum, and shows low melanocyte activity. Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure triggers the development of actinic cheilitis (AC) in this area, and the risk of progression of these lesions to invasive squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) has been reported to be significantly higher compared to other skin sites [1,2]. This clinical picture makes it necessary to develop pharmaceutical formulations that provide broad-spectrum (UVA+UVB), photostable protection specifically for the lip mucosa. Methods: The main aim of this study was to quantitatively determine, using a factorial design, the effects of different sunscreen filter families and their concentration (load) levels in a lipstick matrix on SPF/UVA protection efficacy, photostability, mechanical properties, and microbiological safety. Within the scope of the study, modern organic filters Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) and Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT), classical organic filters Avobenzone and Octocrylene, and inorganic filter combinations of ZnO/TiO₂ were comparatively evaluated. Prototype formulations prepared according to a 3×2 factorial design were subjected to in vitro SPF and UVA-PF measurements, texture analyses, and preservative efficacy (challenge) tests [3,4]. Results: The data showed that the DHHB/EHT combination met the target protection criteria (SPF ≥ 30, UVA-PF ≥ 10) even at low filter load levels and provided a superior sensory profile without causing whitening, compared with inorganic filters. In addition, the anhydrous formulation structure and the selected antioxidant/preservative system formed an effective barrier against saliva-derived contamination during use and complied with ISO 17516/ISO 11930 requirements [5–8]. Conclusion: In conclusion, the optimized lipstick formulations were shown to fulfil the “equivalent protection–low chemical load” principle both in the prophylaxis of actinic cheilitis and in safe daily use. This approach demonstrates that in lip-targeted photoprotective product development, photostability, texture and microbiological safety can be simultaneously optimized.